Zinc Additive Needed
Its been a
topic in the past but I continue to
receive questions on the subject. Motor oil formulations continue to
change but not for the better when it comes to our classic cars.
Manufacturers are being forced by the EPA to reduce the amount of zinc
& phosphorus additives in oil because these additives cause the
premature failure of catalytic converters. Sounds like a valid concern
doesn’t it? The problem is these additives make oil cling and coat
moving parts. Newer vehicles have hydraulic lifters which keep a
continual flow of oil around the lifters and camshaft. Our classic
cars have solid lifters which need the extra lubrication these
additives give. The solution is to always use a zinc additive with
every oil change. Usually 4 to 8 ounces are enough. Moss Motors carries
an additive (220-805) or there are others on the market.
Keeping it in the Fast Lane
Check back frequently for new information of interest to all British car owners.
When it’s in place the rotor will fit on top of it and snap in place. Once the electronic unit is in place with the rotor installed, the distributor can be reinstalled (pay attention to the position
of the rotor and turn it as it was before removal). Replace the cap and next hook up the wires. The red wire will go to the positive side of the coil along with a solid white wire from the ignition. The black wire will go to the negative side of the coil along with a white wire with a black stripe that goes to the tachometer.
Positive ground cars are similar but the wiring will be different. Disconnect all the wires from the coil. The Petronix black wire will connect to the ignition switch wire (this should have been on the negative side of the coil). The Petronix black/white wire connects to the negative side of the coil. You will need a short piece of wire to connect between the positive side of the coil and ground (any close bare metal surface will work. the coil mount bolts are usually a good location).
Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Set the timing as specified in the workshop manual and tighten the distributor clamp nut. Enjoy your dependable ignition system.
Questions or comments can be directed to Ron Redding at 281-346-2417 or e-mail ron@5RRestorations.com.
Electronic Ignition
When it’s time to replace worn points and condensers in your distributor, there are options you should consider. Petronix makes an electronic ignition unit that replaces the old points and condenser and completely fits inside the distributor cap. Installation is easy but you will need to know the model # of your distributor and if your car is negative or positive ground.
On negative ground cars you will need to disconnect the battery then remove the distributor cap. Make note of the position of the rotor. Loosen the distributor clamp nut and remove the distributor. At your bench remove the rotor, points, condenser and terminal & lead (this would normally attach to the side of the distributor and have a wire going to the coil negative side). Now install the mounting plate supplied with the Petronix. Next attach the electronic unit with the wires running out of the distributor at the previous location. Position the round magnetic unit in the kit in place on the distributor shaft. The shaft is basically square where the points would normally contact and the magnetic unit will need to be rotated as you push down to line it up.
Carburetor Leaks
Carburetor problems can many times be corrected without
major rebuilds. Many carburetor
problems involve leaks.
When fuel leaks from the overflows either your floats aren’t
floating or your needles are stuck. Using the handle end of a screw driver, tap
on the side of the float bowl to dislodge a stuck needle. This could indicate
contaminates in your fuel and you need to be sure you have a clean inline fuel
filter. If this doesn’t correct the problem, remove the float bowl lid and
determine if the float is defective. If there is fuel in the float, it must be
replaced.
Leaks from under the float bowl will usually require the
replacement of the bowl seal. Many times this can be accomplished without
removal of the carburetor but it will be easier to repair with the carburetor
removed.
Another place to check for leaks is from the jet. Many of
the cars prior to the ‘60s had cork seals on the jets. When allowed to dry out,
these seals usually leak. The carb should be removed to renew these seals.
After repairs are made be sure to balance the carburetors.
Any questions or comments can be directed to Ron at 281-346-2417 or e-mail
ron@5RRestorations.com.
Door Dings
Keeping our classic cars looking their best can be simple or
complicated, I will choose the simple course. I recently purchased a
car that had several door and fender dings from car doors being opened
carelessly. Being in the restoration business, I have a body shop I
work with on a regular basis, but I really hated to worry about having
body work done (matching paint, etc.) on this otherwise excellent
classic. My solution was to call a paintless dent removal technician.
They are able to remove small dents when the paint wasn't damaged (such
as a parking lot door ding). They use specialized tools to get behind
the door panels and fenders to push out the dents & dings to
original configuration. In my case I had six small dents repaired and
the car looks perfect. The car has no bondo and no mismatched paint.
These services should be available in your area and they will come to
you to do the work.
TEXAS WINTER
Living in Texas allows many of us to enjoy our cars through
the winter months. With year round driving there are certain seasonal changes
that may need to be made.
Of most importance, make sure your choke is operating
correctly. An inconvenience in the summer will turn into a non-starting engine
in the winter without the choke.
A 160 degree thermostat that works great for the summer
months may need to be replaced with a 180 degree model in order for your car to
warm quicker and in order for your heater to blow hot air.
Antifreeze is always recommended but not always at the same
mixture. For warmer months I prefer a ratio of 1 part antifreeze to 2 parts
water (this mix will cool better than a 50/50). For winter months, especially
in North Texas, you may want to go to the 50/50 mix. To be sure, you can have
your antifreeze tested to determine to what temperature your engine will be
protected.
Check your tire pressures because pressure can drop in
colder temperatures. Be sure to check your spare and be sure your jack and lug
wrench or knock off hammer are on board.
Enjoy your winter driving and as always you can call
281-433-8533 or e-mail ron@5RRestorations.com
with any questions or comments.
Most of our classics came
equipped with four speed transmissions. The earlier of these transmissions had
a non-synchronized first gear. In
the 60’s they started offering electronic overdrive gearboxes. This was a huge
improvement which was soon followed by full synchro transmissions. All these
original transmissions were very reliable and only required general
maintenance. Basically being sure the oil level stayed full was all that was
required. The overdrive transmissions would even help remind you to keep them
full. When the oil level would get low the first indication was the overdrive
wouldn’t engage. Most of the original transmissions were good for 100,000 miles
or more. Most internal parts are still available and the boxes can be rebuilt
to like new condition.
Now there are several options
available to upgrade our transmissions and make our cars more drivable. Kits
are available to install more modern 5 speed transmissions into our cars. The
first kits used the Datsun 5 speed transmission and they were installed into
many Sprites and Midgets. Other kits were available but not as common. This
transmission has become scarce so now the transmission of choice is the Ford
Sierra 5 speed. The kit comes complete with a bell housing, clutch disk,
transmission, rear transmission support and driveshaft. I have installed both
of these transmissions on various cars and have had good results with every
installation. The instructions are straight forward and anyone who is able to
remove their engine and transmission from their car should be able to complete
the conversion.
Any questions or comments can
be directed to Ron at 281-433-8533 or e-mail ron @5RRestorations.com